First Trip to the Southwest and New Mexico
I fell head over heels in love with New Mexico within minutes of landing at International Sunport in Albuquerque. Seeing the mountains in the brown-purple-orange distance as I walked down the concourse, I was in instant agreement with its branding as the Land of Enchantment. The view calmed me immediately and I felt very much at home. This distinct sense of serenity was the ‘signature’ of both my trips there.
It was my first trip to the American Southwest, and I was blown away by the profound contrast to the scenery, architecture and culture from other regions and states of the United States I’ve visited, and particularly from my New England roots. I was mesmerized by the ethnicities, cultures and foods I’ve had little or no previous. It was a radically different environment to me, far more so than my travels to Europe. Nothing was familiar and I loved the newness of everything.
I could feel and see the culture shift as I made my way across the country, and knew I had passed into West zone when I changed planes at DFW (Dallas-Fort Worth airport), when cowgirls in black, cowboys with big belt buckles, and business men in pointed cowboy boots and wide brimmed hats began to appear!
I’ve made two trips in winter, one for vacation and the other for business and pleasure. The weather was never very cold and it didn’t snow. My warm heavy winter coat remained unpacked. Being the off-season, I had the entire state to myself.
Rail runner commuter between Albuquerque and Santa Fe (onceadaymarketing.com)
Albuquerque (ABQ)
The Road Runner Commuter Rail connecting ABQ and SF has launched, but when I visited the only options were renting a car or hopping a shuttle. Route 25 is the main connector. This two-lane, sixty-four mile long road runs through open the desert with its hues of brown, grey and green earth tones stretching to purplish mountains in the distance. Low rise pink-brown adobe buildings and shopping plazas are scattered along the roadway. During rush hour traffic is backed up for miles. While famous Route 66 passes through downtown ABQ, it bypasses Santa Fe, which may be a good thing. Santa Fe feels a bit small town.
Albuquerque-Internet
Admittedly, I didn’t spend much time exploring ABQ, but what little I saw didn’t pique my curiosity for much more. The streets were about deserted and there wasn’t much traffic. There was a huge department store with all things Western and Southwestern attire. Old Town was interesting with restaurants, independent shops and charming architecture. There was a cool eatery along Route 66 that survived from the 50s and 60s with high veilings and two floors and I loved the Flying Star Café and attached bookstore a few blocks from where I stayed. Other than that, the city was empty during a weekday (except old Town) and felt a bit creepy. At night downtown has a high crime rate and there’s understandably no night life as most people leave the city after work. I’ve also seen this type of environment in Atlanta and Providence until these cities upped their game and began revitalizing their downtown.
None of the office buildings outside of Old Town’s ten blocks had any particular character or architectural interest. There weren’t any parks or welcoming sitting areas to enjoy in warmer weather.
What did catch my attention was ABQ’s lack of skyscrapers, which I actually liked. The city felt more human-scale and less oppressive. I didn’t have to crane my neck to glimpse the sky! It was a capital city of office parks and low rise buildings. The city has only one skyscraper—the state’s tallest building—topping off at 22 stories.
Santa Fe City Different
Santa Fe by comparison is indeed a City Different, providing an entirely different and unique experience worthy of its brand. It has enough charm to make up for ABQ blandness. I can’t remember a thing I didn’t like about Santa Fe.
It is an upscale, stylish, walk-able city centered around the historic Plaza, filled with galleries, spas, restaurants, hotels, museums, cafes, a tea room, and small independent shops selling some of the loveliest women’s clothes I’ve ever seen, along with stunning handcrafted jewelry and handmade rugs and textiles.
Certified craftspeople sell handmade jewelry at Palace of the Governors
Artisans spread their wares on beautiful textiles under the portico of the Palace of the Governors which is an historic site open for tours. The building is surrounded by traditional Southwest architecture and more than 400 years of history. Only a few streets away from the retail district, wooded neighborhoods perched on hills felt like a rural location miles from everything.
Santa Fe Market Day-Santa Fe. (hotelsuites.com)
Santa Fe is the country’s second largest art market and the city thrives on its artistic economy. It has also been a leader in the SLOW Food movement for decades, starting with its Farmers’ Market almost 50 years ago. Today the market is located in the funky Santa Fe Railyard complex, attracting hundreds of people (did I hear 10,000?) with 150 vendors, cooking demonstrations and assorted activities.
The famous plaza. Yes, they do have grass in NM! (virtualsantafe.com)
Santa Fe’s chefs are legendary and many hotel kitchens and restaurants vie for the praise of very demanding foodies from locals and around the world. Spanish and Mexican dishes aren’t the only cuisine served, French, Italian, Vietnamese and American (whatever that is) are also available. Craft beers, select wines and inventive cocktails complete the meal.
The long standing Santa Fe School of Cooking and the relatively new Santa Fe Culinary Academy, gourmet shops and chocolatiers round out the culinary scene.
Typical Adobe home, regardless of size (Pinterest)
New Mexico is a land of color and scents. Its tenor is set in motion by the omnipresent desert, a deep blue sky, and mountain ranges that come alive with colors throughout the day, especially at sunrise and sunset. The air is perfumed by smoky sweet piñon pine burning in kivas and wild sage.
Residents acknowledge and appreciate that Santa Fe is a special place to live, and are mindful of the natural beauty that surrounds them. Sunsets are a nightly ritual, where dinner parties and conversations pause for everyone to slow down and admire the sun melt behind the mountains, and give way to the moon’s rise.
I love that the rule in Santa Fe is that buildings can be no taller than the nearest tree to allow for unobstructed views of the surrounding Sangre de Cristo Mountains! How’s that for considerate city planning?
Blue and natural adobe house porch. Santa Fe, New Mexico, USA
This natural stage of rugged beauty is set with striking flat roof adobe architecture made from light brown clay bricks, accentuated with bright pops of color and elements of Spanish, Native American and French design. Occasionally, adobes will be awash in bright pastel pigment, but usually such colors are reserved for window shutters, doors and frames.
This Taos adobe resembles the traditional style all throughout NM, including a charming garden and ristra
Nearly every residential doorway is decorated with ristras of red and green chili peppers. Women’s clothing in particular, casually elegant, bright and colorful and exquisite Native American textiles lend bright contrasts to the earthy buildings and desert landscape.
This colorful ristra makes a beautiful contrast to the bright blue door
Adobe styles can differ in size from cozy to large, and details may include curvilinear gables, wooden gates, elegant or rustic doors, wrought iron grates, courtyards, porches, vigas, latillas, canales, and decorative tiles. Gardens of hollyhock mixed with succulents and cactus are a common sight.
Around the Bend. The roads less taken
My trips to NM were business/pleasure centering around Santa Fe and ABQ, with a few jaunts farther out to Chimayo, Madrid, Taos and god forsaken places off the grid where paved roads end and dirt trails begin, and cell phones become useless.
Madrid (pronounced MAH drid) is a teeny quirky town at the edge of civilization as we know it, with a few nice art galleries and clothes shops, and a fun burger joint that has every inch of wall space covered with one dollar bills ‘donated’ by customers who write whatever they want on it for display. I duly made my donation, which I assume will all eventually go to the owner’s retirement one day.
Madrid is a teeny ‘don’t blink or you’ll miss it’ quirky, semi-revived ghost town–artist colony
What I remember most about the town is that it was considered the end of the world to the Santa Fe Visitor Center, whose staff insisted there was nothing worthwhile to see past beyond this point. I was advised to turn around and head back after my visit. For the heck of it, I drove around the bend to see what was there and after driving half a block or so, came upon some of the most magnificent desert views of my trip! Complete with a small herd of wild horses that took off the second I pulled the car over to get out. This is why a bend in the road always catches my eye and curiosity.
Needless to say, I was pissed to be given such poor travel advice that had I followed it, would have deprived me of miles of stunning open desert and gorgeous mountain views. I also came across a pueblo ceremony that welcomed guests to respectfully observe. Serendipity strikes again.
Just one more example why people shouldn’t stay too long at the Visitor desk blabbing out the same useless information they’ve been blabbing for 20 years. Same goes for people who were born and raised in a place and see nothing new or exciting about it. (Note that my Travel Hungry tagline is to explore your community like a visitor!) At least get some people in there who have diverse hobbies and outdoor activities to share all the options.
The road from Madrid (title of my next book) also passed by very impoverished rural trailer parks and tarpaper shacks that resembled the worst barrios in third world countries. I have no idea if it’s possible to see the beauty of surrounding nature when life is so bleak, but I know many Native People’s do feel their connection to Mother Earth despite a struggle to survive.
It was a long trip back when I did finally turn around!
Lodging in Santa Fe B&Bs a few blocks from the Plaza, I walked everywhere or took a shuttle, and only required a car for two days to explore far beyond the city. With concerts, galleries, theatre, museums and several quaint streets to wander, I had plenty to do right in town.
If I’m not mistaken, this was the haberdashery I visited, Canyon Road Hats, to inquire about a custom cowgirl hat. It was a few hundred dollars, and my head measurements were added to the file drawer.
Christmas in NM truly is enchanting
The trip I took the week before Christmas was the most memorable as I enjoyed countless flickering luminarias all over the city and neighborhoods, attended holiday concerts, and hotel’s opened their lobbies to concerts and receptions with crackling fires. It was a gift to enjoy the charm and excitement of the season without the hordes of tourists and families who pack this small city to its max by December 23.
Farolitos line Canyon Road for Christmas Eve Stroll (visitcanyonroad.com)
Bandelier National Monument
My scenic day trip to Bandelier National Monument with cliff dwellings and remnants of the Ancestral Pueblo People living in a vast thriving community, was spectacular in itself. To experience this sacred place free of outside noises, distractions or people was priceless.
Bandelier National Monument cliff dwellings (americansouthwest.com)
The trails were empty except for wandering herds of deer and elk who totally ignored me and walked past by mere inches. At one point I almost walked into a huge elk as I was staring up at the cliffs and didn’t see it crossing my path until inches from a collision.
Haunting petroglyphs could be admired unhurriedly and I believe the whispers of the ancients were carried by the breezes and could be heard through the silence. It was magical and thrilling to be in such an ancient place.
Captivating large black drawings high on a cliff face really struck me as true messages passed through the ages! I was half expecting the messenger to appear at any moment to explain. I have no doubt they were there.
I doubt anyone visiting this historic and ethereal place during the high season could have as intense and moving an experience when jostling with noisy crowds and lines of people waiting to enter the cliff dwellings or grabbing the shuttle, unless they hiked the back country with special guides.
I only saw a tiny speck of the entire park and I hope to return for a closer look and a back country hike. I’m totally bummed that I didn’t go up the ladders (vertigo) or walk along the guard rail pathways. That’s a must do next time.
Bandolier National Monument (american southwest.net)
Bandolier National Monument ancient petroglyph (CJ Hamilton)
After two trips to New Mexico staying in the City Different and traveling many miles from the area, I am in sync with the many residents and visitors, ancient souls and New Age aesthetics who feel and feed the balancing energy that emanates from this ancient land. Centuries of Native Peoples, travelers and transients, cultural exchanges, shamans, mystics, creatives, dreamers, conquerors, nature’s fury and glory, and human struggles for a thousand years have not been wiped from the earth or adobe dwellings of the pueblos. The passage of time respects all that has gone before and makes room for it in contemporary life against the backdrop of desert, canyons, rivers, mountains and sky.
So many of the people I met told me they moved to Santa Fe to live more in the moment. They wanted a slower pace without living in a backwater, and they loved the access to outdoors. Some returned home to raise families and others relocated after visiting. Who knows? Maybe I’ll be one more who joined the ranks.
Travel Hungry in the Cosmos 